Monday, October 7, 2013

1180-1210 Crown Tournament Commission - Part 1 - Undergarments

Her Undergarments

The undergarments for this project were patterned from Norse style tunics, as from what I've seen early period block construction was pretty similar across the board. I've got some experience and a working set of Norse tunics, so that's where I started from. 

I completed Ennelynne's under garment the second night, and did all the visible stitching by hand. I had originally machine sewed along the neck line and the sleeve edges, but after taking a second look I picked it out and stitched by hand with a running stitch and DMC Silk heavy thread. 

Neck, from outside
Neck, inside whip stitch
 Interior and exterior views of the neckline with the machine stitching removed. The inside edge is whip stitched down flat, and the outside has the running stitch which is purely decorative.

I think this gives the overall project a much more finished look. Decorative topstitching and a hand-whipped edging were also done on the cuffs, and on a good 5 yards of bottom hem!

Cuff, inside view
Cuff, outside view

Bottom hem, all completely hand stitched.
The only machine stitching on this garment is the construction seams, and none of the visible stitching is done by a machine.

As Ennelynne and I are almost the same size, it makes it easy for me to test fit and to hem for length. Below is a "completed" picture of me in the dress, showing off length, fit, and the pretty hand work!

This dress has a really nice drape and flow to it, I'd forgotten how nice it was to work in entirely natural fabrics. I'm a little bit worried that it will be tight across the bust, as Ennelynne is bigger than me in that department, but all the test fitting seemed okay and the neckline has been reinforced with two different sets of stitching.

Here you can see the hand work on collar and cuffs.

His Undergarments

I was able to get Daniel's tunic patterned, cut, and assembled and am awaiting a trip from him this afternoon for a test fitting before I do all the finishing work. I am a little bit nervous that his may be slightly restrictive across the chest, as the measurements are very close and I honestly don't remember how much ease I added into them when I took them (bad seamstress). 
Cutting out Daniel's tunic

Detail work of Daniel's collar with topstitching
Sewing sewing sewing!






Seamstress hard at work! Notice the chains and ropes tying me to my machine!
 This tunic came together really quickly, especially after having just assembled Ennelynne's the previous day. I still need more practice getting my gores lined up and taking the time to measure everything twice instead of just winging it, but I was lucky and everything came out even and matching. The seams on Daniel's were sewn with a slightly larger seam allowance, as I wasn't sure if I'd measured correctly and, like I mentioned earlier, I couldn't remember how many inches I'd worked into my measurements for ease. I would rather have it too big and be able to take it in than have it too small and be in trouble.

Speaking of too big, here's a couple of shots of me trying it on. Not quite the same for a test fit ;-)

Daniel has some long arms, and I'm a few inches shy of 6'6.
 One of the changes I made between his and hers is that I added one less gore on each side to his under tunic. I didn't think it would require the same amount of fullness as hers did, and didn't want it to be too much underneath his second shorter tunic.

His, construction completed
His and hers, note the difference in size!



His and hers on top of each other. It's not that she's tiny, it's that HE is a frost giant.

 All in all the under garments came together really quickly, and the hand stitching was an evenings work. I'm expecting Daniel today for a test fitting and if all goes well then I will finish the hand work on his tonight. I've taken a break from his project as I wanted to make sure the pattern I used was working before I cut the black linen for his top garments. There's also a lot of plans for embellishments that will be coming as time permits. But that, my friends, is another post ;-)

-E



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