Cotehardies

This post is serving more as a "Here's what I made this year" than a tracking of a current project. It's been a long time since I've sat in front of a sewing machine, and regretfully there are several projects stacking up on my craft table. I'll be starting to document new works as time goes on, but here's a recap with some images of Cotehardie projects that I completed over the course of the last 8-9 months. These are in no particular order of completion.

Green Linen Blend, Back Lace Cote

Here's a side on view checking the fit of the bust curve. I'd been encountering a lot of issues in getting a "football" shaped point in the middle of the bust and was sewing and re-sewing the curves trying to accommodate my bust.

I have the dress fit inside out here, and while I really like the line it forms under the bust, it's still not fitting quite right in the "middle in between the boobs" area.

I probably took this apart 4-5 times to try and get the central curve on the right angle before finally giving up and settling for what was close to straight.

Here is a shot of me checking placement of side gores. They're a little bit low in this gown, but I decided not to pick it back apart and resew them.

Ideally, they should fall right at the floating rib, but as I put so much extra fabric in my skirts I prefer them to sit a little bit lower so they don't bunch up underneath my belt.

Also, I need to clear off my counter of the strange collection of bathroom products prior to taking pictures of garb construction.





Below are four shots showing fit, from all angles. I really like the length of this gown, it forms a nice pooling at the feet when out of a belt. The puckering area at the bust that I was fighting with earlier is still visible, too. I think it may be too much of a curve in the curved-front.

Teal Linen Cote, Front Button

The second cotehardie I assembled was 100% linen, and is super comfortable. I still haven't actually finished this dress as I plan to have the buttons go entirely to the floor, and I need to finish tacking down the inside liner. 

I didn't have nearly as many problems with this one, so I've left most of the commentary out. Here are a series of photos showing different stages of construction.

Testing Fit of Gores, Front View

Testing Fit of Gores, Side View

This dress was a fun project, and is one of my more comfortable cotehardies. I was able to work out a few of the issues surrounding the bust curve, although I think adding buttons made it easier instead of having a seam. I love the 100% linen, it breathes great and stays cool even in the Florida sun. Definitely a HUGE move-up over synthetics or linen-blends. Below are a couple of photos of the finished product. 

Crown Tourney!

Tucked into a belt, with tippets

Pink Silk Cotehardie

The pink silk cotehardie was the cotehardie of death. I hated sewing it so much that I never actually wore it, and gifted it immediately to my sister the second she announced any sort of interest in the darn thing. I've since decided that sewing any sort of curved seam into dupioni silk is *way* more hassle than I ever plan to do again. Silk, in my world, is forever destined to straight seams and heavy pleating. 

That being said, the dress came together beautifully and despite all my fighting I am really pleased with how it fits. The photos of it don't do it any justice, it's a really beautiful salmon/coral color, and the trim is two shades of gold. 

This dress really was a beast. After I completed it I decided to add the trims onto the neckline and the bottom of the gown, and this, next time, should be planned out in advance!

Getting the gold banding to lay straight on a curved bottom gown was something I hadn't done before. I cut and edged the strips and they were flat stitched on top of the silk. I think next time it should be a strip of fabric attached onto the bottom of the gown, instead of an afterthought because I didn't like the edging.

Along the neck line, the gold is actually acting as sort of bias tape wrapper around the curve. Again, I think in the future this might be better done planned out in advance.

The finish product came out really nicely though, I'm happy with it and Ennelynne loves it :)

Ennelynne and Daniel Von Hessen, modeling their awesome garb!

Green Cote, Upholstery Fabric

The following photos are of a straight front green cotehardie, made out of a really heavy weight upholstery fabric. This was an early project, and before I updated and modified my pattern to one that was more historically accurate and draped to fit me. I have since purchased a new washer and dryer that apparently was much more effective than the old one, and despite my pre-washing and pre-drying.the.hell.out.of.it, it has shrunk and no longer fits. The straight front doesn't really work for my bust, which is why I changed over to a curved front pattern. It's great for Renn Faires or anything where I want to show off cleavage, but not historically aesthetic in terms of fit for me. 

Final Fitting

Before Sleeves, with under gown

Final Fitting. Nice support, but gratuitous cleavage!

And so concludes the update on my cotehardie progress. I've currently got a few more that the fabric is hanging out in the sewing room for, but I haven't done anything with it except cut and dry it. 

Onto the next catchup post :) 

-E